Building New Power Structures in the Wine Industry

Several people mentioned that the wine industry seems fractured right now. There’s been massive isolation. Zoom is not the same as in-person meetings. Lots of folks are out of work or underemployed. Additionally, the industry woke up to the racial inequities embedded in its institutions and culture, igniting a reckoning. Many more people are talking about White supremacy and privilege, sexual assault, and multiple forms of discrimination than just a year ago.

While there’s been progress, we’ll only go so far unless we take stock of how power is wielded and abused in our industry. Power relations are so deeply embedded with White supremacy and heteropatriarchy that most of us don’t consciously notice it, which leads to a perpetuation of the systemic problems we are trying to eliminate. Some choose to work with the power structures that rule the wine industry and think they can change it from within. However, too often when those from the outside gain some power on the inside, they want to hold on to it, even if that means becoming part of the power structure they previously wanted to dismantle. History is rife with examples of women who adopted the dominant, authoritarian norms of tables set by their male predecessors. Indira Gandi and Margaret Thatcher are two prime examples. Even if uncorrupted, this is a futile effort because patriarchal norms form the basis of these structures and institutions. There is a top-down, ‘father knows best’ distribution of power that favors the social, cultural and financial capital of cisgender White men. This patriarchal power structure is based on a hierarchy that promotes egos, ass-kissing, and mediocrity, marginalizes those who express dissent or fail to conform, and has what are essentially litmus tests that serve as hazing rituals to see if those who want to join will go with the flow, and continue to preserve the established power base. Show me a sector of the wine industry and I’ll give you examples. It’s not just conventional vs. natural wine, production vs. distribution vs. retail…it’s everywhere.

Some feel they need to have a seat at the table so that they can one day change and run the table. I look at it differently. What‘s being served at the table is rotten, and the legs are wobbly. We’re better off building new tables and offering up fresh ideas with shared leadership. Here are some thoughts on how to get there, based my ideas and conversations with others, both in and outside of the wine industry.

Mentorship

It’s heartening to see so many in the wine industry offering to mentor BIPOC and women but before embarking on mentorship, think about what that means. A few years ago, I discovered the writings of Paolo Freire, a Brazilian educational theorist whose landmark book, Pedagogy of the Oppressed, is as relevant today as when he wrote it in 1970. Freire decried the neoliberal education philosophy based on a banking system, where teachers deposit information to passive students to memorize. Instead, he espoused a learning system based on reciprocity that enables students to also be in a teaching role and positions educators as students. We can look at mentorship the same way. Everyone has something to learn; everyone has something to teach. Mentorship needs to be conceived not as a father knows best top-down transfer of knowledge and skill but as a cyclical dynamic that encourages critical thinking.

There will always be those who have influence because of their experience, but it comes with responsibility. No matter the years in the industry or age differential, every person has value. If we want to help others achieve their potential, we need to know something about what makes them tick. That means putting yourself in the position of listener and learner. Mentorship is about encouraging people to thrive and shine, not reinforce a belief in our own greatness. Those who’ve achieved their career goals and benchmarks should be proud, but the most significant marker of accomplishment is how we inspire others to spread their wings and fly. It is the duty of the people who have knowledge, know-how, and the benefit of life lessons to pass it on and encourage those who come after us to also pay it forward.

As Freire noted, learners might view educators as the oppressor. Adding my two cents — one of Freire’s weaknesses was the invisibility of women in his works — this is especially true when they are White and/or cismen. I believe everyone offering to mentor BIPOC and women in the industry has goodwill, but addressing structural inequities means giving up power, especially when you have the upper hand. Even with noble intentions, some will be seen as oppressors because of their race or gender, and working from a teacher-student, student-teacher framework will not dispel power imbalances entirely. Erasing 400 plus years where power has been concentrated in the hands of cisgender, White men is not going to happen over night. Even the wokist, most well meaning and evolved males among us are still used to being ‘on top’ and subconsciously will struggle with giving up their power. That doesn’t mean they won’t with conscious efforts but implicit bias comes out in all sorts of ways. Part of the responsibility of mentorship is keeping up our end of the bargain with personal accountability, and paying attention to our implicit biases. Mentorship is not about being perfect, but setting an example. It’s not about establishing your authority, but helping others learn to believe in themselves.

Oust the Gatekeepers

The concept of gatekeepers needs to go. It’s not just a matter of keeping the gates open but tearing them down. And here I’m not just talking about which wines, winemakers, and trends are “in” or certifying bodies but social justice movements within our industry. “Gatekeepers” let in those who reinforce their ideas and ego. You don’t just see this in business; governments and non-profits are rife with egomaniacs. Leaders should create more leaders and mentors, not use this status to build their celebrity and form cliques. Most of us want recognition for our efforts, but ego should never be the primary reason for doing good work. No matter what we do or who we are, we owe our successes to those who broke down barriers before us, and others who helped us along the way. Gatekeeping is just a power trip that encourages conformity and stunts creativity. It is an extension of father knows best. Instead of instituting belonging, it others. The word community comes from communis in Latin, which means common, public, shared by all or many. There is no us vs. them. We’re in it together.

Scrap the Purity Test

We have to stop applying a purity test to every person trying to make their business or the field better. Even “performative measures” hold some weight. Of course, they need to be backed up by action, but for all those who’ve spoken out about social injustice, there are many more who haven’t. Lots of folks simply do not know where to start and are afraid to enter a territory where they feel they don’t belong and will be judged. If someone posts about racial or social justice, invite them into your conversations or start a new one. If you’re afraid of being judged realize that no matter what you say or do, someone is going to find a reason to take issue. Sorry, but you can’t please everyone all the time. If someone lets you know they have a problem with something you’ve done, listen and learn. People are going to say things you disagree with, or piss you off. We all have boundaries, and some conversations are not worth having, but there is much to gain from hearing different points of view. Chances are there will also be those who share your sentiment and showing you’re willing to speak up might encourage others to act. If you find yourself learning from other people’s ideas, let them know. Empowering our colleagues is as important as constructive criticism and discovering a commonality might lead to future collaboration. In public or private spaces, we can use social media to further discussion and pry minds open instead of tearing one another down and canceling people for making a stupid mistake. Shaming doesn’t lead to anything good. It makes others less likely to use their voice or take bold action, lest they fear the wrath of someone who holds a different opinion.

Call In and Turn Fuck-ups Into Valuable Lessons

Furthermore, everyone fucks up. Telling people they “have a lot of work to do” is not a great way to encourage accountability. It makes people feel small. I’ve made this mistake and regret it. I’ve also been on the receiving end. That’s not to say we shouldn’t be upfront and honest or feel like we’re walking on eggshells. Conversations about equity and social justice are difficult, and holding a level of discomfort is par for the course. However, instead of positioning ourselves as morally superior, let people know why and how they screwed up, and ask them to hold you accountable when you make mistakes…and you will. And when someone points out the err of your ways, be thankful, learn from the experience and grow; don’t let it deter you. You now have a lesson you can pass on to someone else. Be tenacious. Also, realize that it takes courage to let someone know — face to face (Zoom to Zoom) — that they did something hurtful, especially if there is an unequal power dynamic. It takes a lot more guts to have a private conversation than to blast someone on social media.

Call Out With Responsibility

Granted, not every situation is the same. Those who sexually assault people or spew hate should be called out; we have a responsibility to provide transparency to our customers and the rest of the industry. I do not want to buy running shoes from companies that employ sweatshop labor and am grateful to consumer watchdog groups for letting me know which manufacturers turn a blind eye to exploitive business practices. Instead of calling for a boycott, which I perhaps mistakenly did last June, we can let the public know but also add a caveat that not doing business with the said company will hurt its workers and leave it up to individuals to weigh the pros and cons. On the other hand, boycotts are effective, and when workers are hurt because their employers made poor choices, it’s on them to change their business practice. I can see both sides of it. Again, there is a power issue here because if you work for a shitty person, it’s not always that easy to quit and get another job, especially now. As an industry, we need to provide a lot more support to workers who suffer, financially or emotionally, from their employer’s malice. It is our problem, and we should hold people accountable but also think about innocent people who might be affected.

Transformative Justice

At the same time, we have to make room for transformative justice. It takes a lot of bravery to engage in any form of contact with those who cause us deep pain, and we have to respect the right of survivors to heal in their way. Yet opening up dialog can be very constructive not only for those directly harmed but others who’ve had similar experiences. If people do not take responsibility for their behavior, it’s hard to have a conversation. Accountability is different from empty apologies. Unfortunately, there is often so much ego involved and, for men especially, a fear of looking weak. Heartfelt apologies are a sign of strength. Listening, not just hearing but listening, is an act of grace. I think it is up to those harmed to decide if someone is deserving of a second chance. Personally, I think that an industry that revolves around an alcoholic beverage is not a place for anyone with a history of committing sexual violence, but that is not my call to make. As for issues related to discrimination and hate, there is room for people to take responsibility for their actions and change but it is not as simple as giving money to Black run or social justice organizations. It starts with acknowledging the harm inflicted and addressing those who suffered, if they are willing to listen.

Ambition Over Competition

We should stop thinking about competition as a virtue. It often leads to bad behavior. If you have a business that’s benefitted during COVID — and many wine importers, distributors and retailers are doing well — reach out to those who are struggling and see if you can help. Ambition is not the same as competition. Ambition is about bettering yourself, and it does not have to be at the expense of other people. On the contrary, we can turn our ambition towards making all boats rise. If there is one thing COVID taught us, it is that we need one another. With competition, someone loses out. That loss might mean our colleagues can’t pay rent, have to let their workers go, or miss meals. Those who’ve fared better over the last year should not think it is necessarily because they have better wines or work harder. Social capital goes a long way during economic downturns, and businesses owned by BIPOC and women are more negatively affected.

The Imposter Syndrome

Lately, I’ve been hearing more people — mostly women— talk about having imposter syndrome. Why do people believe they are imposters? I think there are two reasons. One is the feeling of not being qualified enough to be in a certain place or hold a title, whether that’s a board room, a job, social scene, etc. Then there is the feeling that you don’t belong, not because you’re not qualified but because you don’t connect with the people around you.

First, why do people feel that they are not good enough to hold certain positions? It’s not just an organic lack of confidence. Everyone who is not a cisgender, White male receives messages that they are inferior since early childhood. Even if you had parents who encouraged you to believe in yourself, Western society operates with an overwhelming amount of prejudice (racial, gender, class, sexuality, ability, age) so that despite being recognized for our qualifications, many walk through life with self-doubt. Building up our self-esteem takes work but if you find yourself invited into a professional milieu, remember that if you weren’t qualified, the invitation would have not have been extended. You belong. If the person who extended it had an ulterior motive, that says something about who they are, not you.

However, being qualified doesn’t mean that it’s the right place for you. You should not have to change who you are or compromise your values to gain recognition. This is one of the problems with tokenism. People are included not only because they are qualified but also because they fit a specific demographic. However, once in, they realize that this is not the right table for them. Associate with those who value you not because of how you look on paper or are fun to party with, but because they see and appreciate you for who you are. Once you surround yourself with people like that, chances are you’ll feel like less of an imposter. We do our best work when we’re in a setting that feels right.

Shared Leadership

Let’s think about building round tables instead of rectangular ones with someone stationed at the head. We all need to recognize our strengths and weaknesses and realize that for any organization or business to be successful we need people who can run it with us. Assembling a leadership committee is one of the goals for The Vinguard in 2021. I’m not looking for number twos but others who can come on board as equals and ensure that we evolve and fulfill our mission. Sharing leadership helps us keep one another accountable and egos in check. It doesn’t lessen our responsibility but having others who can shoulder some of the load reduces stress, which can cause burnout. All movements tend to have leaders, but if we structure them with power sharing, we can have a richer exchange of ideas and progress. We might want to think about leadership term limits. Many boards work this way. That’s not to say that some shouldn’t be allowed to stay on for the long haul but bringing new people in refreshes our collective energy and prevents stagnation. However, all collaborations must be approached with a level of caution. Make sure you know who you’re dealing with, that there are matching work ethics, and that the rules of engagement work for all involved.

Build Coalitions

We need to start working together more. I don’t mean just in our communities but building coalitions with others striving to make the wine industry fair, equitable and just. We are going to have disagreements. We will have different ideas about how to get to the same place. A robust exchange of ideas benefits everyone. Ghosting people who have different views or who don’t seem to “get it” is not the way forward. Save canceling for those who do not take responsibility for their misdeeds. We need to speak with one another, not rip into people who express an opinion we don’t share. A lot of people are doing great things. They may not have a big platform or one at all, but in their own way are building new tables. Take the time to find out who they are. It’s not all about how many followers someone has on Instagram.

There are angels in our midst, for sure, but not gurus. Those who are setting themselves up as the gurus and gatekeepers are part of the problem, not the solution. If you feel you need to do business with such people, do it on your own terms, at a table you built and pay attention to the red flags. Importantly, never think that you have to include those who once excluded you or anyone else in the name of taking the high road. If someone has something of value to add that outweighs their downsides, bring them in with caution but focus on getting to know new folks, and reconnecting with those who you admire and respect. Finding the right people to be part of your coalition takes work. Do some vetting. Make sure your values align and that even with inevitable differences, you have the same goals. Many of us want the same things, and for similar reasons. Never settle if you’re unsure of someone’s motivations.

Finally, Have Some Humility

I am not saying that I’ve been above some of the behaviors written about here. I’ve made missteps and am thankful to those who’ve taken the time to discuss their feelings with me. It is not the job of BIPOC to educate White people, for women to set men straight, for LGBTQIA to enlighten their cisgender, heterosexual colleagues, or for those with disabilities to bring our physical or proverbial spaces up to code. Over the last year, the Black community suffered heightened grief, something White people will never grasp. Frankly, I didn’t get it. We can think we’re woke, but unless we’ve walked in another person’s shoes, we never know what they’ve been up against. Accept that, listen, reflect, relinquish your power and get ready to build together. Amplify the voices of the marginalized and let them take the reins. That doesn’t mean that if you have privilege, you have nothing to offer. Everyone has something to contribute, but on different terms, and at a new table. We need a massive paradigm shift, and it’s on us not to just be a part of a movement, but to make that movement happen.

As far as this feeling that the wine industry is fractured, I don’t know if it’s any more or less fractured than it’s ever been. The difference is that we are paying more attention to the discrimination and inequities that’s been going on for way too long and this awareness is causing dissention. Freire talked about ‘conscientization,’ the awakening of a critical conscious that inspires us to take action. Over the last year, that’s been happening on masse. Many of us are calling bullshit to the prevailing power structures and seeing how it is not just the government, not only law enforcement, entertainment, or other industries, but our line of work as well. I think this friction is a necessary step towards making our field one where those who’ve been shut out and marginalized have opportunity and can thrive. We must take where we are now with the ugliness exposed, and work with one another to make an industry that reflects the beauty of why we stay in it; the love of wine.

In solidarity and peace — PSB